Every hunter with any experience knows that a bucks behavior during the rut season evolves quickly. In order to capitalize on the rut, you must evolve your hunting strategy rapidly as well. Unfortunately, many whitetail hunters get duped by not changing their tactics to match the exact point of the rut they are hunting in.

The Different Phases Of The Whitetail Rut

The first thing every person who hunts big whitetail bucks should know is that the rut season can be broken down into three distinct phases, the pre-rut, peak rut and post rut. Most hunters believe that the best time to bag a monster is during peak rut, however, if you have done a bit of homework before the season, you will find success elsewhere.

Pre-Rut- The Seek & Chase Phase

Experienced hunters know that no two parts of the rut are the same, so you need to change your hunting tactics accordingly. Let’s take a look at each phase in more detail.

The pre-rut, sometime called the seek and chase phase can be the best time to hunt for big bucks. If you did some scouting at the end of last season, then you likely already know where the bedding areas, rub lines and transition trails are located. The good news is, the bucks who survived will likely be back in the same areas this season.

This seek and chase phase can often fool hunters who have less experience.  Hunters sometimes mistakenly assume that the rut is getting underway because they see a few bucks chasing does early in the season. These bucks are usually the younger bucks who are experiencing the rut for the first time. During this time, resist the temptation to follow the does and focus your attention on your early season food sources and the entrance and exit routes to them.

As the rut season progresses and the chasing starts to really heat up, very quickly you will see a change in activity and deer sign. You will start to see scrapes along travel routes and rubs on trees as the mature bucks begin strengthening their neck muscles for the fighting which will begin soon. This is the time to switch over to following the does and get more aggressive with your calls and scents. This is the prime time to bag a big whitetail buck as he is scenting does and looking for a fight.

Peak Rut- The Breeding Phase

Peak rut or the breeding phase is still a great time to fill your tag, however it’s also the time when many hunters make the mistake of not changing their tactics. You will likely see less bucks chasing a doe, but sticking to travel corridors near a doe bedding area is still a good option.

Consider changing from stands to a blind. Once you locate the travel corridors being used by these mature bucks, you may find that they lead to areas you would not ordinarily expect to find a buck to relaxing in normally. Putting yourself on the ground floor may give you a chance to capitalizing on this changing pattern.

Be sure to remain aggressive with calling. The type of calling however, may change. While ratting and grunting will work for a buck who has not yet found a doe, it will have the opposite effect on one who has. Consider using a fawn bleat to draw in the doe. The buck will soon follow.

Post Rut-Secondary Chase Phase

The post rut or secondary chase phase is still one of the best time to kill a monster buck. Though peak breeding is coming to an end, there will still be some does who will come into estrus late in the season. This gives the hunter an opportunity to still use scents to lure a buck.

However, your best bet for locating a big buck at this point in the whitetail rut is finding a food plot, preferably one which is high in carbohydrates.  Both the bucks and does have spent their fat stores over the past few weeks.  They will need to replenish them before the winter sets in.

Start out by glassing these plots.  If you are seeing the does feeding, it’s still likely that the bucks aren’t far behind.  For most of the mature bucks, their survival instinct has returned and these mature bucks are sticking to the timber to make sure that they are not the first ones into the field.

At this point in the rut, it’s a good time to consider returning to the bucks original travel routes.  With the bucks hormones returning back to normal, he should come back to his routine; so knowing those routes to and from the food plots and bedding areas can make the difference in filling your tag.

A Final Thought About The Big Whitetail Bucks and The Whitetail Rut

Taking time to do your homework, utilizing trail cameras, food plots and everything else in a hunter’s arsenal, you can almost ensure that you will not leave your tag unfilled.  The bottom line is that your buck hunting success does not depend on what part of the rut season you decide to hunt, but rather how you hunt the time of the whitetail rut you are in.

Experienced hunters are always looking for things they can do to keep deer on their land year round.  Some of the options are more expensive than others and some require more available land, such as creating deer food plots.  However, there are easier, less expensive, less time and less land consuming ways available for even the novice deer hunter.

One of the easiest things a hunter can do is to create homemade mineral licks for deer.  The easiest and least expensive way to create a mineral lick is by using Vita Rack 26 from Hunter’s Specialties.  All Hunter Specialties products are created and formulated with deer and antler growth in mind and are easy on the wallet.

If you choose to mix the lick together yourself, you will need one part loose stock salt, one part dicalcium phosphate and two parts trace mineral salt.  Each of these items are available at your local feed store.  This should be sufficient to create a mineral lick for a deer bedding area of about 50 acres.

Once you have the ingredients for the lick, you will need a 5 gallon bucket, shovel and a rake.  Start by raking away any debris in a 3-4 foot circle around the area you are about to deposit the lick.  Then shovel out and loosen up the top 6″ or so worth of soil from this area.  Then work in the mineral mix and smooth the area over.  Be sure to check the area occasionally and refresh the lick as needed.

So what time of the year is the best time to provide the deer with mineral licks?

Late Winter and early Spring are very critical times for the deer herd in your area.  This is when food supplies become more scarce.  Creating these licks will help to provide the deer with the minerals they need and are likely not to find in sufficient quantities.  Of course, before you set the lick in place be sure to check with your state and local game laws to ensure that it is legal.

Homemade mineral licks for deer can provide the herd in your area with the much needed minerals for antler growth and increased health when they need it most.  These licks also help provide hunters with an opportunity to track the deer in the area with trail cameras around the lick site.  Creating these mineral licks is something that even the average deer hunter can do to help increase the chances of a successful harvest in the Fall.

Check Out This Video:

Please note: they are using different products in the video, but the process is the same.  Enjoy.

You just completed a successful hunting season by filling your tag.  But as all seasoned hunters know, that is when the work really begins!  You know how to field dress a deer, but once that’s done you need to consider the best way of butchering a deer.

So what is the best hang time to allow for aging of the deer meat?  As crazy as it may sound, there are a few different factors that come into play when making this decision.  So, let’s look at it day by day.

Day 1- This is a consideration if the temperatures are high.  If you do decide to do your deer butchering today, be sure not to freeze the meat.  You will want to quarter or bone out your deer, then age the meat in a refrigerator.  Why you ask? After death, rigor mortis sets in and will last between 12-24 hours.  If you freeze the meat before this process is complete, you run the risk of having your deer meat being as tough as leather.

Days 2-4- If you filled your tag with a doe or yearling buck this is when you should butcher the deer.  These  deer don’t need as much hang time because the meat is already naturally tender.

Days 5-8- If you put your tag on a middle aged deer, between 2 1/2 – 3 1/2 years old; this is prime butchering time.  During perfect conditions, which means that temperatures are between 33-38 degrees Fahrenheit, this timeframe makes the meat perfect for processing.  If temperatures spike, just put a bag of ice into the chest cavity to keep bacteria from growing.

Days 9-13- If you tagged a older deer, then consider letting it hang.  The longer your older deer hangs, the better it is for the meat.  Your concern when hanging your deer for near 2 weeks is the internal temperature of the meat.  You should consider using a meat thermometer to be sure that the meat stays cool enough to retard spoilage.

Day 14- This should be the limit for letting your deer hang.  Butcher your deer.  If you let your deer hang past 2 weeks your run the risk of spoilage and complete loss of the meat.

As a dedicated hunter, you take an enormous amount of time to prep for the hunting season throughout the year.  So when you are able to tag a great deer, you want to be sure that you reap all the benefits.  Proper planning with butchering a deer can make all the difference when the time comes to cook the venison.  The better the aging of the deer meat the tastier your meal.

Need Some Ideas for Cooking Your Venison?

Check This Out:

When it comes to tree stands for deer hunting, there are a few things you need to understand before you can choose the best hunting stand for you.  Among the first decisions you will need to make are where will you be hunting and what style of hunting will you be doing.

Knowing where you will be hunting is important because it will dictate the type of hunting stand which will be best suited for the area.  For example, if you are hunting in the thick woods, you may be better off using a fixed stand.  If you will be hunting over a more flat terrain, perhaps a permanent stand would be in order.

So what exactly is the difference between a fixed and permanent stand?

A fixed ­stand is a framed platform that you can attach to a tree using straps, chains, cords or rope.  This type of stand usually has a flat back that rests against the trunk of the tree.  The hunter uses the restraints to secure the hunting stand to a tree.

Using a fixed stand provides the hunter with the ability to set up his hunting stand in a myriad of locations.  However, you will want to be sure that you can properly attach the stand to the tree for your safety.  So before you ever climb a tree with one of these stands you should attach it to the base of a tree while you’re still on the ground, cinch the restraints tightly and experiment with the stand thoroughly.  You should check to make sure it will support your weight, and will do so without making excess noise.

When climbing with your stand up the tree, be sure to use a tree stand safety harness.  It’s always better to find out about any problems while you still have your feet close to the ground!

Permanent stands are as the name suggests a type of hunting stand which you do not move from location to location.  These structures remain up all year long.  They can be anything from a wooden platform to an elevated shelter that looks like your child’s tree house.

Because these stands remain up all year long, they have the advantage of becoming familiar to the wildlife in the area and a hunter runs less risk at contaminating his hunting area.  However, it’s a good idea to inspect a permanent stand on a regular basis.  Depending upon the materials used to construct the stand, weather conditions and general wear and tear, a permanent stand can become unsafe rather quickly.  If your permanent stand was constructed by a Tree Stand Manufacturers Association (TMA) approved company, it should still be checked regularly to ensure that all supports are in place and working properly.

Within these two broad categories are various types of stands.  The most common are ladder stands, tower stand and climbing stands.  Each has its place in the hunter’s repertoire, as well as distinct advantages and drawbacks.

A ladder stand, as the name implies, are stands attached to the end of a tall ladder. The hunter attaches this type of stand to a tree using safety restraints and once it is attached he climbs the ladder to get to the platform.  These platforms can hold a single hunter or multiple hunters; these are sometimes called buddy stands.  The major advantage to this type of stand is that generally it is easier to climb up and down a ladder stand than most other types of stands.  However, there are a couple of drawbacks. One of these shortcomings is the fact that this style of stand is not easily portable.  They are very big and bulky and generally require more than one person to set up.  Initially, due to its size and bulkiness, deer may become anxious once they see this ladder in the area.  However, if you leave it for a period of time before hunting season, you may find that the deer have become more accustomed to it’s presence much like the permanent stands talked about above.

A tower stand is a freestanding platforms supported by three or more legs.  These towers are the stand of choice for hunters in areas which do not have trees to support a ladder or climbing stand, such as Texas and other mid west regions.  Most of these hunting stands are meant to be a permanent stand, but some are constructed to have a more portable metal frame.  These stands are usually bulky and require more than one person to set up.

Climbing stands have become the choice of most hunters in recent years.  This is due in large part to improved designs by the manufacturers which makes these stands easier to set up, lighter to carry and more durable on the tree.  The distinct advantage of these stands is that a hunter can be more mobile and literally hunt in several locations with the same stand.  With this style of stand, a hunter climbs the tree by using the two stand platforms.  By putting downward pressure on the platform, the hunter increases tension on the tree, thus keeping the stand secure. By lifting the platform, the hunter releases the tension and this allows the hunter to slide that piece farther up the tree.  Most modern climbing stands provide the hunter with feet straps on the lower section which let the hunter simply lift his feet to slide this lower section farther up the tree.  By repeating this motion, the hunter can slowly climb his way up the tree to the desired height.

Regardless what style of hunting stand you choose, be sure that it is approved by the Tree Stand Manufacturers Association (TMA).  This will ensure the highest quality and greatest level of safety for the hunter.

You enjoy deer hunting.  You take advantage of every minute the hunting season has to offer.  You look forward to the first day of the archery season not only because it kicks of the season, but because of the challenge hunting a whitetail with a bow gives you.

As the season rolls on, you still enjoy the rifle season and hopefully you have filled your tag.  But, part of you secretly hopes that you didn’t fill your tag yet.  Why? Because you also enjoy the challenge of hunting deer with a muzzleloader.

As you think about the prospect of heading out on the hunt using your muzzleloader, you get excited.  Hunting with a muzzleloader offers you the best of both worlds.  You have the challenge similar to that of hunting with a bow, because you only get 1 shot.  Yet, you get the excitement of using a firearm and all the accessories that go with it.

Are you ready for the challenge?  Is it time to get a muzzleloader or replace your old one?  To help you do this, I have listed my top 3 choices for the best muzzleloader below.  The best part; they are all under $600.

1. Thompson Center Impact- This is a great beginners muzzleloader.  It is a break action which utilizes a “hood” to protect the breach when the action is closed.  It also has a customizable stock which allows you to add spacers to fit the muzzleloader specifically to you.  You can pick up this winner by Thompson Center for about $300.
2. Traditions Vortek Ultra Light- Weighing in at only 6 1/4 pounds, the Ultra Light will keep you excited while you are out in the fields.  It’s tapered, ported barrel helps the Ultra Light meet it’s name and light weight, which will make it easy for you to carry while on the hunt.  The Ultra Light features a 209 primer ignition, a removable breech plug  and shoots just about dead on right from the factory.  Priced at about $500, the Ultra Light will also be light on your pocket.
3. CVA Accura V2- CVA is no stranger to muzzleloaders.  The V2 is similar to the original Accura, but its quick release breech plug takes it a step above.  The V2 continues to impress as you won’t need a starter when loading.  You can put the bullet into the guiding system and use the field rod to seal it on the charge.  The V2 is the most expensive choice on my list, but worth every penny, coming in at just under $600.

As you continue to enjoy the sport of deer hunting, make sure you experience all that it has to offer.  Starting with the first day of the bow season straight through the last day of muzzleloader season.

If you take the time to choose the best muzzleloader for you, your chances of enjoying the experience will certainly increase.  Hopefully the list I have provided here will help you with your decision.

Understanding the technical language surrounding rifles and rifle shooting can be important whether you are looking to purchase your first rifle or are a seasoned hunter.  The idea of specific hobbies or jobs having a “special language” all their own isn’t unique.  No matter what job field you’re in, most likely there are some “jargon” terms which are completely understood by people in your field, but seem foreign to the rest of the world.  The same is true when it comes to speaking with professionals about your rifles.

So, let’s look at some of these phrases and give you the knowledge to understand the terminology you need to succeed.

Ballistic coefficient- This describes how aerodynamic a bullet is.  When speaking about bullet coefficient the higher the number the better.  A bullet with higher coefficient will drop less than a low coefficient bullet.

Headspace- This is the distance between the bolt face and the part of the chamber which stops the forward motion.  Head space is something you will find in all rifles.  If your rifle has too little headspace, your round won’t feed properly; if your rifle has too much headspace and you risk an explosive injury when you pull the trigger.

Lock Time- Is the distance between trigger passing the sear and the firing pin striking the primer.  The quicker the lock time the better.  This will help a rifle to be more forgiving for shooter errors such as flinching.

Overbore Capacity- This is when a rifle cartridge has more gun powder in it than it can burn efficiently.

Over Travel- Describes the distance that the trigger moves to the rear after it has released the sear.  If you have been shooting for any length of time, you have undoubtedly heard someone say that it is imperative to have your trigger pull properly adjusted (not to be confused with pull weight-which is mentioned below).  Having too much over travel will increase any shooting error and dramatically affect bullet trajectory.

Parallax- A common problem with higher magnification rifle scopes.  Parallax describes the reticle not being properly in line with the objective lens.

Pull Weight- This is the amount of force necessary to allow the trigger to release the sear.

Understanding the terminology used by gun smiths as well as other hunter will help you to improve your skills.  It will give you the knowledge necessary to speak intelligently and to better utilize the advice of other professionals when shooting your rifle.

The use of food plots for deer as well as their overall importance to the quality of the deer herd in your area has evolved over the past 15 years or so.  If you have the right plan, you can meet the deer herds nutritional needs while increasing your hunting opportunities.

This idea of using food plots to provide adequate deer management for herds across the United States is not only big business, but has developed into a vital piece of the deer hunters pie.  Pick up any outdoor publication or perform a search on the internet and you can easily find any number of articles providing advice and suggestions regarding the planning of food plots for whitetail deer.

However, to understand why this has become such an important aspect of overall deer management as well as deer hunting strategy; you must understand why planting food plots are vital in the first place.  Deer food plots serve two purposes;  first is nutrition and second is to create a harvest plot.

As you may suspect by the name, a nutrition plot is planting to improve the overall nutritional needs of deer in your area.  These need change throughout the year and when planting food plots, you should consider a 365 day per year approach to ensure that the entire herd has what they need when they need it. This can be a difficult to accomplish and is greatly affected by a number of factors such as area of the country, herd population, planting and soil conditions and natural cover and vegetation.  However, getting these plots right, will almost guarantee a healthy herd, larger antlers and more harvesting opportunities.

A harvest plot is what most hunters across this country usually focus their attention on when they speak about planting food plots for whitetails.  This can be beneficial in areas of the country where the indigenous whitetail population is in need of reduction to get it in line with the carrying capacity of the land.  However, these plots generally only seduce deer during the rut, which is a very small period of the whitetails overall cycle.

No matter what forage product you intend to plant on your land, finding the best location is key.  Quality deer management experts say that it is best to plant only one food plot per every 80 acres of land.  So, if you do not own enough land to lend itself to planting multiple food plots, it may be in your and your neighbors best interest to coordinate your planting efforts to complement each other.

Other considerations for food plots location is most food plots will thrive better in low lying locations.  This is due to the fact that water and nutrients are usually more plentiful.  Be sure that these areas do not flood as most forage products will not survive in a flood zone.

Lastly, be sure that your food plots are near natural vegetation which provides the whitetail  with cover.  This will help them to feel more comfortable about wandering into your food plot safely.  By taking all of these items into account, you ensure proper nutrition for the herd throughout the year and ultimately increase harvesting opportunities during hunting season.

As a deer hunter, you should seriously consider supplementing your deer herds diet with food plots.  By doing some homework for your area of the country and practicing good deer management, it is possible to provide year round nutrition for the deer while increasing your harvesting opportunities during hunting season.

Field dressing a deer is one of the most important steps in a deer hunt.  You will hear many hunters refer to this point of the hunt as “this is where the fun stops and the work begins.” Whether this statement is true or not, this is definitely a very important piece of the overall hunting puzzle.

Knowing how to field dress a deer ensure that you can bring home venison for the whole family to enjoy.  You should gut the deer as soon as possible.  If you wait too long to gut your deer, you run the risk of ruining the meat due to the growth of bacteria.  Learning how to dress a deer requires some patience and the right tools.

First let’s take a look at some of the tools that will help you get through the process.  You will need a pair of plastic gloves (some hunters don’t use these, but with Lyme and other disease, better to be safe), a sharp knife, small saw, rope, water or alcohol wipes (to clean your blade between cuts-this will help avoid contamination), a plastic bag for the heart & liver and a rag.

After you ensure that your deer is dead and you take pictures to preserve the moment, it’s time to dress the deer.  Let’s take the field dressing step by step.

1.    Begin by putting on your gloves and laying the deer on its back.  Spread the hind legs wide apart.  If necessary, use some rope to tie the legs to a tree, ATV or other object to hold the area open for you to cut.

2.    Using your knife (blade up) make an incision just below the bottom of the breastbone.

3.    Once you have your incision, position your knife within the cut (blade up) and then place your fingers inside in the form of a V.  By gently pulling up the hide, your fingers will push the entrails away from the cutting blade. AVOID PUNCTURING THE ENTRAILS. Make a cut from the breastbone to the pelvis right down the middle of the deer, until you reach the reproductive organs.

4.    Make a incision around both sides of the penis and testicles or udder.  For a buck, reach inside the body cavity and cut the base of the penis and testicles to remove them.  For a doe, cut around the udder and remove.  It is a good idea to check and see if the doe still has milk.  You can do this by cutting the fatty area of the udder, milk will seep if the doe is still lactating.  You may be asked at the check in station.

5.    Make a deep incision around the anus and vagina of a doe.  The incision should be about 2 inches in diameter and about 4 inches deep.  If you notice ay fecal matter, you may want to tie off the anus with string, some hunters prefer an anus plug (available at any hunting supply store).  Be careful not to cut the rectum or bladder. Push the intestines back into the body cavity.

6.    To remove the bladder and urinary tract, look in the lower abdomen.  The bladder is a pear shaped sack.  It is important to be very careful with the bladder so not to taint the meat with urine. Pinch off the bladder with one hand and cut if free with the other.  Some hunters will use a sting to tie of the urinary tract a few inches from the bladder , then cut and remove the bladder from the carcass.

7.    Spread the incision you made earlier to open up the cavity.  You should spread the cavity at least 6 inches to avoid getting hair inside.  Make your final cuts to the connective tissue holding the internal organs in place as well as the diaphragm so you can remove them.  Be careful not to pierce any internal organs such as the stomach.

8.    Cut the skin and muscle from the bottom of the breastbone to the brisket.  Using a small saw, cut the breastbone and split the rib cage.

9.     The next step is to cut the esophagus.  If you are not going to mount the head, then you can cut the hide and cartilage along the breastbone before cutting the esophagus.  If you are planning to mount the head, reach in with one hand and pinch off the windpipe as far up as you can.  With your other hand use your knife to cut the windpipe.  Be careful, because you can’t see your knife it is possible to accidentally cut your fingers.

10.    Roll the deer on its side and allow the internal organs to roll out onto the ground.  Be sure to keep the esophagus during this to ensure that the stomach contents don’t leak out and contaminate the meat.  Cut any remaining connective tissue.

11.    If you plan to keep the heart and liver place it in the plastic bag and seal.

The carcass should be packed with ice or other cold item for transport back.  Once you get back, the carcass should be rinsed thoroughly after cutting the pelvic bone with a saw.  Be sure that once you finish rinsing the carcass you hang the carcass and hold the breast cavity open with a piece of wood or some other item to allow for proper ventilation.  The deer should hang for 2-3 days in temperatures less than 45 degrees.

Deer hunting can be a fun and rewarding activity.  To ensure you are able to completely enjoy the fruits of you labor its important to know how to field dress a deer.  So, take your time, do it right and enjoy the venison you will have from your harvest.  You deserve it.

To Help You See How It’s Done:

Deer hunting is a popu­lar outdoor activity, one that is often shared with family and friends. Hunting requires you to be informed about how to hunt, focused, skilled and patient. But, probably more than anything else, when deer hunting you need to be careful.  Hunters who do not follow hunting safety tips put themselves and other innocent people at risk.

Every year, hundreds of hunters suffer injuries while out on their hunting trips. When the average person hears that statement, they automatically assume that the injury was suffered at the hand of the hunter’s weapon.  Though there are indeed weapon related accidents, not all injuries come as a result of a firearms mishap.

There are an unlimited number of reasons why a hunter could sustain injury while out on a hunt.  Unstable terrain, dangerous a­nimals, improper use of equipment and more can spell danger for the hunter while out in the woods.  It’s vital for you to understand the potential dangers before you  head out on your hunt.

One of the best ways to begin to understand all of the potential dangers to you as a hunter is to enroll and complete a hunter safety course. This is a requirement in just about every state for new hunters.  A new hunter must complete one of these programs before they are allowed to apply for and purchase a hunting license.  However, these same states often also “grandfather” a hunter who may have previously had a hunting license without taking a safety course.  Even if you have gone hunting before, taking a hunter safety course will provide you with new insight and information which may save your life.

Most states require the hunter to attend one of these classes in person.  However, many states offer courses in hunter safety which are conducted over the Internet. Even these programs require the hunter to participate in a day to prove they have learned and can employ the lessons from the online course. The International Hunter Education Association (IHEA) has an online course which the hunter can wrap up at his/her own convenience. The IHEA’s hunter safety course should be used as a supplement to a traditional hunter safety program.

In order to provide a broad cross section of safety topics for the hunter, let’s take a look at five tips every sportsman should keep in mind to stay safe on their next deer hunt.

Tip # 1- Practice Gun Safety

Every hunter must follow proper gun safety practices. The cardinal rule when handling any gun is to treat every gun as if it were loaded at all times. Even if you personally unload the gun­, treat it with the respect and care of a fully loaded weapon.

Keep the gun’s action open. Only load the gun when you’re ready to use it. Never point a gun at yourself or another person. Practice and maintain muzzle control; keep the gun’s muzzle pointed in a safe direction. Generally, the safest direction is usually toward the ground.

Keep your finger off the trigger until you are ready to shoot. When walking through the fields and woods carrying your gun, don’t have your finger on or near the trigger. Also, keep your gun’s safety on until you are ready to fire.

If you hunt from a tree stand, use a strong rope or cord to hoist your gun up to your stand.  When you do this, your gun must be unloaded. Only pull your gun up to your tree stand once you have secured yourself in the stand. When you are coming down out of your stand, lower your unloaded gun to the ground first. Never climb up to or down from a tree stand with a loaded weapon.

Tip # 2- Be Sure Of Your Target

This is the natural extension of tip # 1.  This tip is so very important and yet should be common sense.  Be sure you completely identify what it is your about to shoot at. Also be sure what lies beyond the target.

This can be more difficult that you may thing.  You have been in your stand for several hours.  you haven’t seen a ting all day, the just before last shooting light out steps something in the tree line.  You quickly move your gun into position.  You line up your target up in the sights and fire. What could possibly be wrong with that?

First, that’s not the correct means to guarantee an efficient and humane kill. Every time you fire at your target,  you want to make the very best shot possible. Second, you need to verify your target.  You must ensure that what you see is not another hunter or innocent person just strolling through the woods. Third, you need to be cognizant of what’s between you and your target, not to mention what’s beyond your target. Often times hunters enter into a lease with a famer to hunt on his land.  Consider what might happen if you miss your shot or if it goes clean through the animal; what would happen, what’s in the bullets path?

You should never take a shot unless you are certain that it is safe. That might mean you miss the chance to shoot a deer on that day, but it will also prevent a horrible accident.

Tip # 3- Be Safe In Your Tree Stand

Any hunter who has been in the woods hunting for a trophy deer knows that a tree stand is a useful hunting tool. It allows the hunter an elevated view of the surroundings and potentially avoid being detected by the all to impressive deer’s nose. However, tree stands can ­also be very dangerous. Most provide only a very small surface upon which the hunter kneels, sits or stands. Getting on and off a tree stand safely can be challenging. Most accidents with tree stand occur when the hunter is climbing up or down.

However, this doesn’t mean that you are safe once you get into the stand.  Once you are there, remain aware of your location in relation to the edge of the platform. Let’s not forget, after being in the stand for a period of time, there’s also a risk of nodding off.

For these and many other reasons, it is imperative that you wear a fall arrest system when using a tree stand. Generally, a fall arrest system tethers a hunter to the tree. There are many styles of restraints and harnesses. Each design has pros and cons and are most effective when you follow the manufacturer’s guidelines. It’s important to wear the restraints from the moment begin your climb to the moment you return to the ground. Also, be sure to have a plan how to safely lower yourself back to the ground if your fall arrest system catches you after a fall.

Tip # 4- Use Hunter Orange

Even if you are hunting on private land, you should always keep in mind that you may not be the only hunter out there. You want to be as visible as possible and be sure that you are identifiable as a human. This is why all states require a hunter to wear blaze orange or hunter orange. Though the requirement for how much orange you must wear when hunting varies from state to state, it is a good idea to wear a vest or jacket as well as a hat.

Tip # 5- Never Hunt Alone

Hunting with a partner definitely increases your degree of safety when hunting. If either of you has an accident, the other can ass­ist or go get help.

Hunting is sometimes a very enjoyable experience when you are out on your own.  There is definitely something to be said for the solitude you can experience when sitting in the woods by yourself.  If this is an experience that you enjoy, at the very least, you should tell other people where you’re going to hunt and when you are going to return.

Consider however, the fun, excitement and memories which can be had by sharing the experience.  Not to mention the fact that you should introduce your children to the sport.  This provides a unique opportunity to bond with your child and teach them ethics which not only last out in the woods, but in all areas of their lives.

By following these hunting safety tips, you increase your chances of having not only a safe hunting trip, but an enjoyable one with many more to follow.

Every trophy deer hunting enthusiast has the dream of owning a cabin in the heart of deer country.  Not only is it their desire to have the opportunity at a fair chase trophy whitetail, but it is living and being a part of the beauty that is the great outdoors.

There is a certain serenity about waking up everyday with a view of majestic snow covered mountain peaks capping off soft forests on the floor below.  Mixed in those soft evergreens and sprinkled throughout the hardwoods are native hay meadows with pristine streams running throughout.  This is an almost picture perfect scene.

Unfortunately, all trophy deer hunting enthusiasts do not have this exact scene available to them on their property, but owners can help to develop the perfect trophy whitetail hunting conditions by planting whitetail food plots to aid in year round deer nutrition.

For these enthusiasts looking to manage their property and whitetail population, understanding what deer eat and planting deer food plots with those forage items is a great way to supplement the whitetail diet.  Properly managed food plots provides excellent year round nutritional possibilities for the whitetails and of course great hunting opportunities in the fall.  Food plots may vary depending upon several factors including region of the country, soil, climate and irrigation.  However, some mixture of soybeans, corn, clover and chicory will provide great additional nutrition for the indigenous whitetail population.

This spawns the question posed by every hunting enthusiast who looks to plant food plots to entice whitetails to their property; “What do I plant to attract deer to my property during hunting season?”  Unfortunately there is no one answer to this question.  However, deer forage manufacturers such as Evolved Harvest, Whitetail Institute of North America, Hunters Specialties, Tecomate Wildlife Systems and Wildgame Innovations provide new products for whitetail nutrition every year.  There are numerous products, each designed to grow in different climates, weather and soil conditions.  There are even products available which do not need to be planted in tilled soil.  However, these products all have some commonalities in the forage they produce.  Most contain clover, brassica, chicory and grains.

All hunting enthusiast don’t necessarily have access to the variety of equipment necessary to cultivate the land and manage these food plots. With this thought in mind, it should be noted that most food plots can be managed with an ATV and a few attachments.  These items will give the deer enthusiast the ability to plant a good sized food plot in an afternoons worth of work.

Here is a list of the items needed to prepare and plant these food plots:

1.       ATV or side-by-side utility vehicle

2.       Field and brush mover

3.       Forage mix

4.       Hand held or tow behind spreader

5.       Disc or drag behind harrow attachment

6.       Roller or cultipacker attachment

The following is a simple four step process for preparing these food plots:

1.       Clear the Area- Clear the plot of brush and grass with the field or brush mower.  Most of these mowers come in a self propelled design or a tow behind attachment.  If you have thick growth in an area, you may need to do a controlled burn.

2.       Prepare the Ground- Turn the ground with the disc or harrow attachment.  This will prepare the soil to accept your choice of forage.

3.       Spread the Seed- Make sure that your choice of seed is capable of sustained growth in the climate in which you live.  Be sure to plant ample seed.  Doing this before a good rainfall will jump start the food growth.

4.       Cover the Seed- Cover the seed with the cultipacker or roller attachment.  This will push the seed into the ground where it will be ready to soak up the pending rain.

Utilizing the land you have and planting whitetail food plots will help the deer hunting enthusiast to fulfill his/ her dream of having and hunting prime trophy deer hunting property.  Good property and herd management is essential to developing these prime hunting opportunities.

If you are looking for DIY food plot information, click here for the most comprehensive information available.  This information speaks to all areas of the United States and is compiled by a deer management specialist.

To discover the top 5 producers of deer forage, check out this video: